Growing and Growing and Growing!

I continue to be amazed at how this casual little hobby of mine has grown.

More than ever I want to thank all of you for stopping by and more importantly for all your help in making this place grow. I haven't checked the numbers but I'm pretty sure that my single biggest source of material is now coming from reader submittals! So in a very real sense, this site is as much (or more) yours than mine. And for those of you that have asked I'm still having a ball. Sure there are days I get distracted with work and family and such but I'm a long way from burnt out. So please keep sending them in and Thanks!.

Two Good Sons And A Speechless Dad

Some brothers surprise their dad with a special Christmas present. They sneak his basket case 69 Norton out of his basement and get it fully restored for a Christmas present all without him knowing it. A WIN all around!

How To Handle A Fall (Assuming It's Inevitable) By: James R. Davis

Of all the Tips I have posted here, this one is clearly the least credible in the sense that I have no experience in the matter, nor can I imagine a way to practice that makes any sense to me (nor would I want to.)

Still, I will post the thoughts in the hope that the reader will not take them as advice, but purely my opinions on the matter. Further, I suspect that in real life one does not have time to do anything deliberate until after the first impact, and then there may be no decisions possible. On the other hand, since I have personally witnessed a deliberate and life-saving maneuver by a woman who had just suffered a highside accident, I know that at least some people retain enough presence of mind in an accident that the following couple of ideas just might help.

• The objective should always be NOT to fall - even if the bike is going down. That is why I teach my friends how to dismount their bikes (at slow speeds) if it is dumping, or to stay with it until after first impact at higher speeds, if possible.
• DO NOT TRY TO BREAK YOUR FALL WITH YOUR HANDS!!! In other words, try to impact with as much of your body at the same time as possible.
• If you are doing a lowside the bike is ahead of you and you want it to stay that way. Since the coefficient of friction between you and the ground/asphalt is higher than of a metal motorcycle, you want to get as much of your body on the ground at the same time as you can to slow you as quickly as possible so the bike will slide away from you. In other words, arms over head, feet first, butt down. Stay LOOSE (relaxed, in as large a configuration as possible.) LET GO OF THE MOTORCYCLE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!!!
• If you are doing a highside you will be in front of the bike when you hit the ground. You want to move as fast as possible - in the same direction you were going and for as long as you can - in order to try to avoid getting crushed. In other words, you want to 'tuck' and roll as soon as you can after you hit the ground. Stay TIGHT (in as small a configuration as possible.)

Before you try to get up after taking a spill you must be sure that you have come to a stop first! Wait a couple of seconds until you are sure.

I don't think most people will have time to do anything deliberate at all by way of falling. But perhaps I'm wrong and the above thoughts can in some way be of assistance.
---
Following the posting of this Tip I received many e-mail messages which argued that a person simply does not have time to do anything that could affect the outcome of a fall. I responded with the following:

quote:

---

My comments had very little to do with how you hit the ground following a 'get off' as I don't think there is sufficient time to do anything very deliberate until after the first impact, and then there may be no decisions possible. Rather, I was trying to suggest that as you are coming to rest (assuming you can function at all) then you should try to END UP either loose (as much body contact as possible with the ground) or tight (as little body contact as possible with the ground - tuck and roll posture) depending on if you went down on the low side or the highside.

Despite the fact that I don't think most people would have either the time nor the presence of mind to do much 'thinking' during a 'get off', some do. I have personally seen, for example, a woman in her late fifties do a 50 MPH highside and when she landed, because (I believe - she can't remember) she was so afraid that the bike would land on top of her, began a rapid rolling maneuver that saved her life (the motorcycle stopped 1 foot short of where she did.) I have personally witnessed this same woman (honest) respond to a huge wind gust that knocked her bike over just as we were coming to a stop at a pullout on the top of a mountain and she was thrown over her bike, this time at about 5 MPH.

During this latter 'highside' she actually did a summersault before hitting the ground - a clearly deliberate move on her part (we all watched as she tucked her head down and 'kicked' away from her bike which allowed her to land on her curved back and then she 'unwound' and stopped her roll by spreading her legs. (She had gotten away from the bike that was following her, but wanted to stop rather than keep going.) Good thing, because had she gone another five feet she would have had a SEVENTY FOOT fall off the mountain. (There was no fence or guard rail that would have stopped it.) Incidentally, Elaine saw both of these 'highsides' , too.

Anyway, I mention these events because they left a very strong impression on me that some people DO have the presence of mind to determine how to END a fall, despite how fast things are happening to them. I'm not at all sure I'm one of those people, but at least I have thought about it and know that if I'm in front of my motorcycle I want to keep moving until I can't move any more - and I want as small an exposed profile as possible, just in case that bike catches up with me.

As to the lowside concept of trying to end up on your back, arms over your head, feet first - this was originally told to me by a motorcycle 'stunt man' in LA a couple of decades ago about how he tries to stop after a dismount. (Not that any of us are into that sort of thing, of course. )

How To Handle A Fall (Assuming It's Inevitable) By: James R. Davis

Of all the Tips I have posted here, this one is clearly the least credible in the sense that I have no experience in the matter, nor can I imagine a way to practice that makes any sense to me (nor would I want to.)

Still, I will post the thoughts in the hope that the reader will not take them as advice, but purely my opinions on the matter. Further, I suspect that in real life one does not have time to do anything deliberate until after the first impact, and then there may be no decisions possible. On the other hand, since I have personally witnessed a deliberate and life-saving maneuver by a woman who had just suffered a highside accident, I know that at least some people retain enough presence of mind in an accident that the following couple of ideas just might help.

• The objective should always be NOT to fall - even if the bike is going down. That is why I teach my friends how to dismount their bikes (at slow speeds) if it is dumping, or to stay with it until after first impact at higher speeds, if possible.
• DO NOT TRY TO BREAK YOUR FALL WITH YOUR HANDS!!! In other words, try to impact with as much of your body at the same time as possible.
• If you are doing a lowside the bike is ahead of you and you want it to stay that way. Since the coefficient of friction between you and the ground/asphalt is higher than of a metal motorcycle, you want to get as much of your body on the ground at the same time as you can to slow you as quickly as possible so the bike will slide away from you. In other words, arms over head, feet first, butt down. Stay LOOSE (relaxed, in as large a configuration as possible.) LET GO OF THE MOTORCYCLE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!!!
• If you are doing a highside you will be in front of the bike when you hit the ground. You want to move as fast as possible - in the same direction you were going and for as long as you can - in order to try to avoid getting crushed. In other words, you want to 'tuck' and roll as soon as you can after you hit the ground. Stay TIGHT (in as small a configuration as possible.)

Before you try to get up after taking a spill you must be sure that you have come to a stop first! Wait a couple of seconds until you are sure.

I don't think most people will have time to do anything deliberate at all by way of falling. But perhaps I'm wrong and the above thoughts can in some way be of assistance.
---
Following the posting of this Tip I received many e-mail messages which argued that a person simply does not have time to do anything that could affect the outcome of a fall. I responded with the following:

quote:

---

My comments had very little to do with how you hit the ground following a 'get off' as I don't think there is sufficient time to do anything very deliberate until after the first impact, and then there may be no decisions possible. Rather, I was trying to suggest that as you are coming to rest (assuming you can function at all) then you should try to END UP either loose (as much body contact as possible with the ground) or tight (as little body contact as possible with the ground - tuck and roll posture) depending on if you went down on the low side or the highside.

Despite the fact that I don't think most people would have either the time nor the presence of mind to do much 'thinking' during a 'get off', some do. I have personally seen, for example, a woman in her late fifties do a 50 MPH highside and when she landed, because (I believe - she can't remember) she was so afraid that the bike would land on top of her, began a rapid rolling maneuver that saved her life (the motorcycle stopped 1 foot short of where she did.) I have personally witnessed this same woman (honest) respond to a huge wind gust that knocked her bike over just as we were coming to a stop at a pullout on the top of a mountain and she was thrown over her bike, this time at about 5 MPH.

During this latter 'highside' she actually did a summersault before hitting the ground - a clearly deliberate move on her part (we all watched as she tucked her head down and 'kicked' away from her bike which allowed her to land on her curved back and then she 'unwound' and stopped her roll by spreading her legs. (She had gotten away from the bike that was following her, but wanted to stop rather than keep going.) Good thing, because had she gone another five feet she would have had a SEVENTY FOOT fall off the mountain. (There was no fence or guard rail that would have stopped it.) Incidentally, Elaine saw both of these 'highsides' , too.

Anyway, I mention these events because they left a very strong impression on me that some people DO have the presence of mind to determine how to END a fall, despite how fast things are happening to them. I'm not at all sure I'm one of those people, but at least I have thought about it and know that if I'm in front of my motorcycle I want to keep moving until I can't move any more - and I want as small an exposed profile as possible, just in case that bike catches up with me.

As to the lowside concept of trying to end up on your back, arms over your head, feet first - this was originally told to me by a motorcycle 'stunt man' in LA a couple of decades ago about how he tries to stop after a dismount. (Not that any of us are into that sort of thing, of course. )

Bajaj Pulsar Italian Body-modification

Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTS-I made in 2007 came from India. He only apply the style full dress model alias firing MotoGP. "Pulsar this box will be added for the purpose of Turing," says the head of the Riau Bajaj Community (RBC). Sepatbor Similarly Dainese back fit design that has become characteristic of modif Berkat Motor (BM) where Rudi titivate motor.

Motorcycle concep: Harley Davidson Circa 2020

Harley Davidson Circa 2020, Designer Miguel Cotto’s Harley Davidson abstraction looks like it came beeline out of sci-fi. The affected abstraction is anachronous for 2020, and has an 883cc agent for ability and the accustomed barrage of the Harley. Then there’s the glassy design, hubless auto and the all-embracing look, all indicators to a motorcycle of the future. The architecture is about tron-like in execution. Check out the caster hubs. They’re in actuality huge bearings. So with all those accepted being about present, all you charge now is your affected helmet and affected getup.Somebody canyon me a helmut and a time biking address because if this is what Harley bikes attending like in 10 years, I’m so there. Designer Miguel Cotto pays admiration to the big alley hogs by befitting the ample 883cc engine, complete with aerial revs and roars. The similarities end there. The architecture is about tron-like in execution. Check out the caster hubs. They’re absolutely behemothic bearings. Harley Davidson Circa 2020 I do see glimpses of Harley DNA in the centermost anatomy but seriously, can you angel any alley warriors benumbed this?

Launch Yamaha YZF-R1 2010 and R15 White Body Color

2010 model Yamaha YZF-R1

2010 model Yamaha YZF-R1 will soon be available for booking at all important Yamaha outlets for a price of 12.5 lakhs. in india.

Yamaha R1 2010 specifications:

Engine: 998cc 4 cylinder.

Power: 179.5 bhp at 12500 RPM.

Max torque: 115.5 NM.

6 speed gear box.

Yamaha R15 2010 model

Yamaha R15 2010 model specifications:

149.8CC engine that produces 17bhp@8500rpm and 15nm max torque at 7500 rpm.

Electric start, alloy wheels, 6 gears and disc brake.

Mileage: 45kmpl.

Price of Yamaha R15 2010 White color special edition: 98490/-

Price of Yamaha YZFR1 2010: 12.5 lakhs Ex-showroom Delhi.

YAMAHA R1 2010 SPECIFICATION

Features Yamaha R1 2010

* The YZF-R1 garnered the prestigious award as the 2009 Motorcycle of the Year from Motorcyclist Magazine. The YZF-R1 was chosen for its MotoGP®-inspired engine and chassis technology, and for its luxurious fit and finish.
* Back for 2010, the YZF-R1 is the only production motorcycle with a crossplane crankshaft. Crossplane technology, first pioneered in MotoGP® racing with the M1, puts each piston 90° from the next, with an uneven firing interval of 270°- 180°- 90°- 180°. This uneven order does an amazing thing… it actually lets power build more smoothly. That means smooth roll-on delivery out of the corners, with outstanding tractability, followed by very strong high rpm power. It’s a feeling that’s simply unmatched, like having two engines in one: the low-rpm torquey feel of a twin with the raw, high rpm power of an inline four. This breakthrough technology on the YZF-R1 represents a paradigm shift in both technology and performance.
* This R1 keeps all the technological superiorities developed for its predecessor: YCC-T™ (Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle) is MotoGP® inspired fly-by-wire technology used to deliver instant throttle response. YCC-I® is Yamaha Chip Controlled Intake which is a variable intake system that broadens the spread of power. The fuel injection system provides optimum air/fuel mixtures for maximum power and smooth throttle response.
* The R1 features Yamaha D-MODE (or drive mode) with rider-selectable throttle control maps to program YCC-T performance characteristics for riding conditions. The standard map is designed for optimum overall performance. The “A” mode lets the rider enjoy sportier engine response in the low- to mid-speed range, and the “B” mode offers response that is somewhat less sharp for riding situations that require especially sensitive throttle operation. Switching maps is as easy as pushing a button on the handlebar switch.
* In keeping with this machine’s exceptional cornering ability and crisp handling, the aluminum frame has been designed to offer exceptional rigidity balance. The rear frame is lightweight Controlled-Fill die-cast magnesium, contributing the optimum mass centralization. Suspension includes SOQI front forks which use one of the tricks developed for our winning MotoGP® bikes: independent damping. The left fork handles compression damping and the right side handles the rebound damping. And the rear shock adopts bottom linkage for optimum suspension characteristics.
* The bodywork does more than add break-away-from-the-crowd styling with its more serious, less busy look. The side fairing is smooth for a sleek appearance. And, instead of the usual four-bulb headlight design, the R1 has only two projector-type bulbs mounted closer to the nose of the bike. This positions ram air ducts closer in for a more compact, smooth look. In addition, the rounded lenses are unique to the supersport industry.

Yamaha R1 2010 Specifications
Engine
Type 998cc, liquid-cooled 4-stroke DOHC 16 valves (titanium intake valves)
Bore x Stroke 78.0mm X 52.2mm
Compression Ratio 12.7:1
Fuel Delivery Fuel Injection with YCC-T and YCC-I
Ignition TCI: Transistor Controlled Ignition
Transmission 6-speed w/multiplate slipper clutch
Final Drive #530 O-ring chain
Chassis
Suspension/Front 43mm inverted fork; fully adjustable, 4.7-in travel
Suspension/Rear Single shock w/piggyback reservoir; 4-way adjustable, 4.7-in travel
Brakes/Front Dual 310mm disc; radial-mount forged 6-piston calipers
Brakes/Rear 220mm disc; single-piston caliper
Tires/Front 120/70ZR17
Tires/Rear 190/55ZR17
Dimensions
Length 81.1 in
Width 28.1 in
Height 44.5 in
Seat Height 32.8 in
Wheelbase 55.7 in
Rake (Caster Angle) 24.0°
Trail 4.0 in
Fuel Capacity 4.8 gal
Fuel Economy** 33 mpg
Wet Weight 454 lb
Other
Primary Reduction Ratio 65/43 (1.512)
Secondary Reduction Ratio 47/17 (2.765)
Gear Ratio – 1st Gear 38/15 (2.533)
Gear Ratio – 2nd Gear 33/16 (2.063)
Gear Ratio – 3rd Gear 37/21 (1.762)
Gear Ratio – 4th Gear 35/23 (1.522)
Gear Ratio – 5th Gear 30/22 (1.364)
Gear Ratio – 6th Gear 33/26 (1.269)

Moto-art at Halifax boutique

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By CMG Staff, via : http://cmgonline.com

You wouldn't normally expect to find art representing vintage motorcycle competitions in a fancy boutique, but Love, Me isn't your normal boutique.

The store on Birmingham Street in Halifax carries Canadian handmade, small-run, independent products for wearing, living and giving, according to their website.

More importantly, right now and until the end of October, they're featuring a display of art by Anna Stowe, a multidisciplinary artist and designer who seems to have taken a fancy to vintage motocross and other forms of the manly art.

Her show, Miles of Bliss, celebrates "the jumps, bumps, mud, rocks and dust of early motorcycle trials and scrambles," and is a mixture of mixed media paintings and inked line drawings.

If you love motorcycles and art, or even just shopping in fancy all-Canadian boutiques, get yer ass down there right now. If your ass can't get there, check out stodesigns.com for some inspiration.



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Reader Ride From Spain! A Honda CM400T Street Tracker.

This may be the nicest CM400T on the planet. Damm that is cool.

I've said it here many many times. You do NOT need big money or big engines to build fantastic bikes. And here we have another excellent example of that. This beauty was built by Mario Trigo Salorino wo writes in:


Hello, my name is Mario and I write from Spain. I'm a fan of your blog for a long time. Always show the style of bikes that I like. It is a daily appointment required.


I want to show a personal project I recently completed. It is a Honda CM400T, base uncommon, has been done by me and some friends. I do not define his style, bobber, track, brat ... is a modest project but I'm very happy with the result. Major changes are, handlebars, handlebar switch, repositioning of the electrical components and battery box, exhaust, rear set, clocks, modified original seat and paint job. Appear on your blog would be a reward for my work. I hope you like.


A greeting and continued with this great blog. Muchas gracias.


PS. Sorry for my English.

Your English is fine Mario It's an excellent build. I am labeling at a Street Tracker but you're right it has elements of other styles in it as well.  ! Thank you very much for sending in these great picture!

SAVING TIME CAN COST YOU MONEY by Bill Bish

In the current economic downturn, cash-strapped states across the U.S. are charging huge fines for speeding violations and other traffic infractions. All across America, legislators have one eye on road safety and the other on depleted coffers, and depending on where you live a speeding ticket can cost from under a hundred dollars to a couple thousand or more, reports AOL Autos.

 

Drivers caught speeding in the states of Georgia, Illinois, North Carolina, Nevada and New Hampshire all are liable to be fined up to $1000, at a judge's discretion, for a first-time speeding offense, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The severity of the financial penalty also may depend upon the number of miles above the speed limit when clocked and the number of points on a driver's license, or if the offense occurred near a school or road works. A driver's license may also be suspended, their vehicle impounded, or they may face jail time. 

Some states including Michigan, Texas and New Jersey, operate under so-called "driver responsibility" laws, which, in some cases, can result in a further fine of up to $1000 leveled a year after the conviction. Virginia, which until 2008 had some of the strictest penalties for speeders, repealed its driver-responsibility laws last year after a public outcry. Georgia, meanwhile, has just voted to add $200 to the fine of what it terms "superspeeders," who travel more than 10 mph over the speed limit. Other states with fines of up to $500 -- which in many cases is then compounded with additional court fees -- include Maryland, Missouri and Oregon.

SAVING TIME CAN COST YOU MONEY by Bill Bish

In the current economic downturn, cash-strapped states across the U.S. are charging huge fines for speeding violations and other traffic infractions. All across America, legislators have one eye on road safety and the other on depleted coffers, and depending on where you live a speeding ticket can cost from under a hundred dollars to a couple thousand or more, reports AOL Autos.

 

Drivers caught speeding in the states of Georgia, Illinois, North Carolina, Nevada and New Hampshire all are liable to be fined up to $1000, at a judge's discretion, for a first-time speeding offense, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The severity of the financial penalty also may depend upon the number of miles above the speed limit when clocked and the number of points on a driver's license, or if the offense occurred near a school or road works. A driver's license may also be suspended, their vehicle impounded, or they may face jail time. 

Some states including Michigan, Texas and New Jersey, operate under so-called "driver responsibility" laws, which, in some cases, can result in a further fine of up to $1000 leveled a year after the conviction. Virginia, which until 2008 had some of the strictest penalties for speeders, repealed its driver-responsibility laws last year after a public outcry. Georgia, meanwhile, has just voted to add $200 to the fine of what it terms "superspeeders," who travel more than 10 mph over the speed limit. Other states with fines of up to $500 -- which in many cases is then compounded with additional court fees -- include Maryland, Missouri and Oregon.

Yamaha Raider S Cruiser 2010

new 2010 Yamaha Raider S before purchasing this Cruiser bicycle. They have all the information you need including the manufacturer suggested retail cost, which starts from $14,790 MSRP that will give you the negotiating edge when visiting the dealership. The 2010 Raider S is made in Japan. Yamaha first introduced the Raider model in 2008. With front Dual Hydraulic Disc brakes that will securely cease this Raider S motorbike on demand. It comes standard with a 1854 cc V Twin engine, as well as a 5 speed transmission. Compare the Yamaha Raider S prices, pics, OEM accessories, MPG, and complete specifications of the engine, suspension, brakes, wheels and tires, transmission, seats, bags, and more to other submodels.

Photo's of DUCATI 848 NICKY HAYDEN EDITION

ducati 848 hayden edition

The 848 Testastretta Evoluzione engine becomes the benchmark for the middleweight sportsbike category, benefitting from all the experience accumulated with the larger engine on the 1198. It successfully adopts the same design guidelines and the same compact cylinder and cylinder head layout, but introduces for the first time ever an innovative solution for the crankcase, which has been designed with a further weight reduction for this advanced engine in mind. The overall layout of this engine integrates a series of avant-guard solutions, confirming the close links with the experience of Ducati’s racing department.

The 849cc engine has bore and stroke values of 94mm and 61.2mm respectively, which produce a ratio that is only slightly inferior to the 1098 (1.54 compared with 1.61), while maintaining the highly ‘over-square’ layout typical of racing engines.

Power output is an impressive 134hp (98.5kW) at 10,000 rpm and maximum torque is 71 lb/ft (96Nm) at 8250 rpm. The power and torque values confirm the high performance level of this engine, especially when compared to its predecessor, the Testastretta-engined 749.

The cylinder head has been modified in line with the characteristic bore and stroke of the engine in order to optimize the fluid dynamics of the intake (straight and plunging) and exhaust ducts and combustion chamber. The compression ratio is 12:1.

Valentino Rossi to Ducati? Not so fast!

 

In today’s news that really isn’t news, an interview of Ducati CEO, Gabriele del Torchio, by Bruno de Prato found on Cycle World’s website on August 3rd, reveals the CEO speaking in a matter-of-fact tone about Valentino Rossi’s status as a team member on Ducati’s MotoGP effort.

In the CW article, Del Torchio states that the 2010 racing season “will not bring to Ducati any crown in the sport,” but that he looks “forward to Valentino Rossi teaming up with Nicky Hayden.”

“Nicky is a wonderful person and a great rider. This year, he greatly contributed to improving our Desmosedici racer. Next year, he and Valentino will hone the bike to its ultimate winning potential,” Del Torchio continued in the CW interview.
Rumors have swirled for weeks about Rossi’s departure from his long-standing relationship with Yamaha to join Ducati. Internet communities and race paddocks alike have, at this point, taken the rumors as facts merely waiting for an official announcement from either Rossi or Ducati. Yet neither has made the official proclamation.
Furthermore, an article published August 4th on the BBC’s website sports page reports that Ducati denies a solidified agreement to have Rossi racing red. The BBC article quotes a statement from Ducati that purports to down play further rumors that Rossi has in fact officially signed with Ducati:
“Regarding the recent allegations attributed to Mr. del Torchio, Ducati states that no agreement has been reached with the riders Valentino Rossi and Nicky Hayden for the future Moto GP season, although our interest in these riders remains.”
It’s possible this “leak” by Del Torchio is merely Ducati’s attempt to further ramp up anticipation, but if that were the case it would seem like overkill on Ducati’s part. Do Rossi and Ducati fans need more reason to get amped up?
On the other hand, it’s feasible Del Torchio merely had a momentary lapse of reason, and let slip that Rossi is fully on board. However, if we examine the Del Torchio quote, it’s also possible that Cycle World took a leap (albeit a pretty safe one) in proclaiming Del Torchio’s words as confirmation of Rossi’s commitment to Ducati.
Del Torchio says he looks “forward” to Valentino Rossi teaming up with Nicky. This is possibly a not-so-carefully worded response by Del Torchio, as in he hopes and just presumes Rossi will eventually complete the deal, and so phrased it that way. And continues in that same presumptive tone in the rest of his quote. After all, as CEO, Del Torchio likely has many things on his mind, and may not have his finger on the pulse of the day-to-day minutia, like the technicality of Rossi’s ink-on-paper signature.
As for Ducati’s official response to CW’s article (and possibly others), it should be clear at this point in history that the United States isn’t the only society paralyzed by freewheeling litigious actions. Ducati must cover its ass (and back pedal against Del Torchio’s comments) by saying no deal ’tween the company and Rossi is complete until the ink is dry. Regardless of how well talks have gone, and intentions clearly stated.
This is perhaps one of the most tantalizing silly seasons in years. Regardless of when Rossi’s commitment to Ducati is announced officially, it’s easy to imagine the scenario when Rossi rolls out on a Duc in the first race of the season next year: Tens of thousands of Ducati fans will faint from excitement like teenage girls did when the Beatles first came to the U.S.

Ice White Brutale!

MV Agusta have announced that their Brutale 990R will be available in a brand new colour , ice white, but only 5 will be coming to the UK. The 144bhp (1090RR), the Brutale is one of the most powerful naked streetbikes available!
Ride safe

Jon Booth
Email: webmaster@inter-bike.co.uk
Blog: http://bestmotorstyle2011.blogspot.com//
Swicki: http://motorcycling-swicki.eurekster.com/

We here at MPOTD do NOT condone this...

...but holy crap it's mesmerizing. The second half of this video is just hair raising.

Bart Markel

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Bart Markel won the AMA Grand National Championship three times during the 1960s. His final national win in Columbus, Ohio, on June 27, 1971, marked his 28th career AMA national victory. That victory broke the record for most wins, previously held by Joe Leonard at 27. Markel's record of 28 Grand National wins held until 1982, when Jay Springsteen earned his 29th victory at the Houston Astrodome.

From 1958 until he retired from racing in 1972, Markel competed in more than 140 AMA Grand National Series races. When inducted into the Motorcycle Hall of Fame in 1998, Markel's 28 wins placed him seventh on the all-time win list. He is still considered one of the best riders in the history of AMA racing.

Bartlett David Markel was born in Flint, Michigan, on August 19, 1935. He rode a few times on street bikes as a teenager, but didn't get into the sport in earnest until he came out of the Marine Corps in 1956. A good friend of Bart's named Ronnie Williams was racing in local scrambles events. Markel decided to get involved and went out and bought a Jawa for $25 and started racing.

"I did pretty well on that old clunker as long as it kept running, which wasn't very often," recalled Markel. "I raced four or five times on the Jawa before I went out and splurged and spent 50 bucks for an old BSA B33."

Before long, Markel entered the BSA in a flat track race in Wisconsin.

"I figured they paid a little money at dirt track races so I decided to give it a go. In my first race, I was doing pretty good until the bike blew up."

Markel didn't let that inauspicious start hold him back. He continued to race and soon began winning. Midway through the 1958 season, Markel was bumped up to the expert ranks. His first finish in a national came at the Peoria (Illinois) TT in 1958, where he took eighth. Markel began to make his mark in 1959, when he earned four top-10 finishes, including runner-up at the Springfield (Illinois) Mile. He ended the season ranked seventh in the series and earned a factory-backed ride with Harley-Davidson.

After a slew of podium finishes, Markel finally broke through with his first national win at the Peoria TT on August 28, 1960. He ended the season as the third-ranked rider in the Grand National Series. Markel came back to defend his title at Peoria in '61, but only finished fourth in the series.

Markel began earning a reputation of being a very aggressive rider and was dubbed "Black Bart." At one point, Markel was suspended from racing for rough riding.

"I didn't like following anybody," explained Markel, who was an amateur boxer in his younger years. "If I needed to give someone a little shove to get in front of them, that's what I'd do. I don't like to admit it, but I guess I was a little rough. Back then I figured if I settled for second one week I'd settle for third the next and so on. So I always rode as hard as I could."

In 1962, Markel came back to have his finest season ever. That year he won a total of six races, the most wins in a single season since Joe Leonard's incredible 1954 campaign, in which he won eight nationals. Markel earned his first national championship that year over second-place Carroll Resweber, whose career had ended after being seriously injured late that season... Read more @ : http://motorcyclemuseum.org



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Damm... Onboard porn..

Would have been so much better WITHOUT the music but still WAY cool. BMW SS1000 I think...

Cool Suzuki 750 2 Stroke Replica Build Pics. WithBonus Video!

You can see more here.  All in french though. 

Saw this today on a popular message board. Classic!

For Those of you who spend time on motorcycle message boards you'll get a kick out of this.



How many motorcycle forum members does it take to change a light bulb?

1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed

14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently

7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs

6 to argue over whether it’s “lightbulb” or “light bulb” …

another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is “lamp”

15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that “light bulb” is perfectly correct

19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a light bulb forum

11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum

36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty

5 People to post pics of their own light bulbs

15 People to post “I can’t see S$%^!” and their own light bulbs

7 to post URL’s where one can see examples of different light bulbs

4 to post that the URL’s were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URL’s

13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add “Me too”

5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy

4 to say “didn’t we go through this already a short time ago?”

13 to say “do a search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs”

1 to bring politics into the discussion by adding that George W. isn’t the brightest bulb.

4 more to get into personal attacks over their political views.

1 moderator to lock the light bulb thread.

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again.

Hydroplaning Issues What is it? What to do about it? Are they making new tires less safe? By: James R. Davis

 

Hydroplaning is the result of your tires moving FAST across a wet surface - so fast that they do not have sufficient time to channel that moisture away from the center of the tire. The result is that the tire is lifted by the water away from the road and all traction is thus lost.

Of course the word 'fast' is a relative term. Tread design, tread depth, weight of motorcycle, tire pressure, depth of water and even the consistency of that water - (whether it is highly aerated or not, for example) - all play a part in determining at what speed the tire will begin to hydroplane. It is a pretty safe bet to assume that any speed in excess of 60 MPH is fast enough to support hydroplaning regardless of the other variables. This is not to say that at 55 MPH you are safe, however. (A formula that comes close to predicting the speed at which you will hydroplane, assuming at least .2" of water on the ground, is: 10.27 * Sqrt(tire pressure) which shows that if your tires hold 35 psi, hydroplaning can be expected at 60.76 MPH, while tires with 41 psi of air in them should expect hydroplaning at about 65.75 MPH. 

Another formula that is somewhat more accurate, though much harder to calculate, is: 7.95 * Sqrt(tire pressure * contact patch width / contact patch length). This formula shows that the wider the contact patch is relative to its length, the higher the speed required to support hydroplaning. I bring this to your attention because it is contrary to my understanding that a wider tire is more susceptible to hydroplaning than is a narrower tire, yet this particular formula seems to yield a closer approximation of the threshold hydroplaning speed. In other words, I cannot explain why the formula seems to work.

In any event, there are two absolutely essential NO-NO's to remember should you experience the beginning of hydroplaning:

• Do NOT apply your brakes
• Do NOT try to steer in any direction but straight ahead

Though I am not formally trained in the matter I would suggest that the only thing you can possibly do to help the situation is to feather your clutch to moderate your speed without the possibility of drive train 'snap' that would result from an abrupt change of the accelerator.

Hope there is an idea in there that you can work with. Frankly, I think if you start to hydroplane the odds are that you are going to go down unless you keep the front wheel pointed absolutely dead ahead and it is of the briefest of durations.

While on this subject I would like to make another observation about our tires. If you look at the stock front tire on all new GoldWings you will see a Dunlop K177.



If you look at the tire tread pattern you will also see that the grooves are cut in such a way as to tend to channel water away from the center of the tire if it is rotating in accord with the arrow stamped on the side of the tire. This seems to be consistent with what the Dunlop factory rep advised in his latest message to me on the subject.


However, if you look at the front tire tread pattern of the new Dunlop Elite II's (K491) they are aligned in exactly the opposite way. That is, they tend to channel water towards the center of the tire. This CANNOT be the most effective way to diminish the odds of hydroplaning! Either the K177 or the K491 is safer on wet streets based on those tread patterns. (I believe that most new street bikes (other than Honda) come with tires treaded like the K491's.)

If anyone knows why I sure would like to hear about it. Thanks.

I, of course, tried to find out the answer for myself. I wrote to the company that manufactures these tires and in my letter I explained my concerns, just as I did above.

Following is the terse response I received from the Dunlop Tire Corporation to those concerns. I think you can draw a few conclusions from this 'hedge" - at least one of which is that hydroplaning and braking compete with each other from a tread design point of view. It might also be concluded that if you start using these newer designs you should lower your speeds in the future when the roads are wet, below what used to work just fine for you (I will!).

quote:

---

Our development and testing during the design of the Elite II front tire determined optimum overall performance was achieved with this pattern which includes wet traction and braking.

Dunlop Tire Corporation

---

(This response was signed by a person named Tom Daley.)

Mind you that I am not of the opinion that Dunlop has made a mistake with this design! In fact, I think braking performance is FAR MORE IMPORTANT than hydroplaning resistance. This is particularly true since we can usually choose how fast we drive on wet streets but often cannot choose when it is necessary to stop quickly. I would have liked a little more candor from them on the issue, however.

For example, (because it is left to me to interpret their response), I do not know if they were actually saying that they had determined that the old design (such as IS being shipped on the front tires of new Wings) is better or not than the K491 design from an hydroplaning point of view.

Hydroplaning Issues What is it? What to do about it? Are they making new tires less safe? By: James R. Davis

 

Hydroplaning is the result of your tires moving FAST across a wet surface - so fast that they do not have sufficient time to channel that moisture away from the center of the tire. The result is that the tire is lifted by the water away from the road and all traction is thus lost.

Of course the word 'fast' is a relative term. Tread design, tread depth, weight of motorcycle, tire pressure, depth of water and even the consistency of that water - (whether it is highly aerated or not, for example) - all play a part in determining at what speed the tire will begin to hydroplane. It is a pretty safe bet to assume that any speed in excess of 60 MPH is fast enough to support hydroplaning regardless of the other variables. This is not to say that at 55 MPH you are safe, however. (A formula that comes close to predicting the speed at which you will hydroplane, assuming at least .2" of water on the ground, is: 10.27 * Sqrt(tire pressure) which shows that if your tires hold 35 psi, hydroplaning can be expected at 60.76 MPH, while tires with 41 psi of air in them should expect hydroplaning at about 65.75 MPH. 

Another formula that is somewhat more accurate, though much harder to calculate, is: 7.95 * Sqrt(tire pressure * contact patch width / contact patch length). This formula shows that the wider the contact patch is relative to its length, the higher the speed required to support hydroplaning. I bring this to your attention because it is contrary to my understanding that a wider tire is more susceptible to hydroplaning than is a narrower tire, yet this particular formula seems to yield a closer approximation of the threshold hydroplaning speed. In other words, I cannot explain why the formula seems to work.

In any event, there are two absolutely essential NO-NO's to remember should you experience the beginning of hydroplaning:

• Do NOT apply your brakes
• Do NOT try to steer in any direction but straight ahead

Though I am not formally trained in the matter I would suggest that the only thing you can possibly do to help the situation is to feather your clutch to moderate your speed without the possibility of drive train 'snap' that would result from an abrupt change of the accelerator.

Hope there is an idea in there that you can work with. Frankly, I think if you start to hydroplane the odds are that you are going to go down unless you keep the front wheel pointed absolutely dead ahead and it is of the briefest of durations.

While on this subject I would like to make another observation about our tires. If you look at the stock front tire on all new GoldWings you will see a Dunlop K177.



If you look at the tire tread pattern you will also see that the grooves are cut in such a way as to tend to channel water away from the center of the tire if it is rotating in accord with the arrow stamped on the side of the tire. This seems to be consistent with what the Dunlop factory rep advised in his latest message to me on the subject.


However, if you look at the front tire tread pattern of the new Dunlop Elite II's (K491) they are aligned in exactly the opposite way. That is, they tend to channel water towards the center of the tire. This CANNOT be the most effective way to diminish the odds of hydroplaning! Either the K177 or the K491 is safer on wet streets based on those tread patterns. (I believe that most new street bikes (other than Honda) come with tires treaded like the K491's.)

If anyone knows why I sure would like to hear about it. Thanks.

I, of course, tried to find out the answer for myself. I wrote to the company that manufactures these tires and in my letter I explained my concerns, just as I did above.

Following is the terse response I received from the Dunlop Tire Corporation to those concerns. I think you can draw a few conclusions from this 'hedge" - at least one of which is that hydroplaning and braking compete with each other from a tread design point of view. It might also be concluded that if you start using these newer designs you should lower your speeds in the future when the roads are wet, below what used to work just fine for you (I will!).

quote:

---

Our development and testing during the design of the Elite II front tire determined optimum overall performance was achieved with this pattern which includes wet traction and braking.

Dunlop Tire Corporation

---

(This response was signed by a person named Tom Daley.)

Mind you that I am not of the opinion that Dunlop has made a mistake with this design! In fact, I think braking performance is FAR MORE IMPORTANT than hydroplaning resistance. This is particularly true since we can usually choose how fast we drive on wet streets but often cannot choose when it is necessary to stop quickly. I would have liked a little more candor from them on the issue, however.

For example, (because it is left to me to interpret their response), I do not know if they were actually saying that they had determined that the old design (such as IS being shipped on the front tires of new Wings) is better or not than the K491 design from an hydroplaning point of view.